By: Bryan Archambeault- 6/2000
Edited by:  Randy Wheeler

Now you can install longer rear shocks on your Jeep YJ Wrangler without cutting into the body tub! .

Comparing the old and new front shocks

Comparing the old and new rear shocks

I was flipping through some 4x4 magazine and noticed that Rancho was having their 1-2-3-FREE! sale, so I decided that this was the best time to upgrade my shocks.  The Pro-Comp Coil Conversion lift kit that I have came with Pro-Comp ES9000 shocks, but they are kind of stiff. I'd always wanted some Rancho RS9000's anyway, so this was a good excuse.  I also decided to get some front shocks that were about 2" longer than the ones that came with the kit, as they were my limiting factor in my front suspensions full droop. 

As fate would have it, I came across a rear shock mount bracket that allows you to use a 2" longer shock in the rear of the YJ!  So, I was now on a quest for some RS9000's that were 2" longer in the front and the rear.  I decided on some RS9005's in the front (about 29" extended and about 17" collapsed - my ES9000's were about 27" extended and about 16" collapsed), and some RS9116's in the rear (about 24.5" extended and about 15" collapsed - my ES9000's were about 22" extended and about 15" collapsed).

The new rear upper shock mount brackets

The YJ rear shock mount is designed to allow room for use of 10" or longer travel rear shocks using the stock upper mount location.

1.  Remove shocks and gas filter guard (some early YJ models do not have the guard).  My guard was already removed due to the installation of the upper control arm mounting bracket of my coil conversion kit. 

Step 4: Drilling the hole for the 1/2" pin

2.  On the right side of the vehicle the heat shield on the under side of the body may need trimming.  Before mounting the right side new shock, check for clearance.  It's really a heat shield extension.  The main heat shield above the muffler is not in the way.  I removed the shield extension and planned on trimming and reinstalling it later.  I will get to that some day.  No, really.

3.  Slide the new mount on existing upper shock mount.  You will note that the 1/2" pin used to locate the new upper mount contacts the frame before the mount can be pushed all the way on.  Locate the pin in the lowest part of the factory welded upper mount flange on the frame.  This should locate the shock mount correctly.  Didn't really know what they meant by the "lowest part of the factory weld", so we just test fitted the shock to make sure it wouldn't contact the body.

Step 5: Remounting the shock

4.  Mark the location of the 1/2" pin and remove the mount.  Drill a 1/2" hole in the frame at this location.  On the driver side, this was easy. There's nothing in the way and with some good bits, it's a piece of cake.  On the passenger's side, the exhaust pipe makes it difficult to get a drill in there.  It took a few tries to get the hole the right size for the pin on the bracket.

5.  Reinstall the shock and tighten the factory upper shock nut to secure the new mount.

Installation is now complete and ready for your new shock.

I was very pleased with the quality of these brackets.  They are thick and have good welds and the powder coating was done well.  The big difference was in ride quality (which has nothing to do with these brackets).  With the RS9000's set on 2 (1 is the "softest" setting) my ride quality increased tremendously over the ES9000's.