About you, your 4x4 and access

Directory Links to Archive Articles

Technical Article Archive
Continue reading
  18218 Hits

IFS Driveshaft CV Modification for Increased Angle



The tools I used for this project are an angle grinder, a die grinder with a carbide burr, a small sledge hammer, a flat-head screwdriver, a sturdy vise, some small washers, and a small pick or piece of wire and a magnet in case I end up needing to fish out needle roller bearings.

If all you plan to do is get the joint apart to clearance it, the only u-joint caps you need to remove are the ones in the center section of the joint (which I'll call the "H" from here on out).

The basic method I use to remove u-joints is the same as used in this article. It's fast and effective. Reading the article will help you understand how I disassemble this CV joint.

1. Start by removing the grease zerks and c-clips from the u-joint caps you plan on taking out. Use a flat head screwdriver to dig into the grime and to pry and hammer the clips off.

2. Support the flange end of the CV on top of the jaws of the vise. Pound on the "H" with the sledge hammer. A few good whacks will bring the cap up.
Flip the joint over and do the same thing to the cap on the opposite side. Hold the joint at a certain angle to get the cap to be able to be pounded out as far as possible, however this still wont be far enough to get ahold of the caps to get them out.

3. At this point, you should be able to move the joint cross back and forth between the two caps. If any of the needle roller bearings have fallen out of place, use a pick or some wire and a magnet to get them all out. If you don't, they will be ruined when you try to pound the caps the rest of the way out, and then you will need a new u-joint. The same goes if you lose any of them, so be very careful if you plan to re-use the joint (Hint- pumping some new grease into the joints prior to disassembly may help keep the bearings in place).

Continue reading
  24824 Hits

Dual Transfer cases for your Gen2 Montero


Well, this whole crazy thing started when I started researching the similarities between the Jeep AW4 and the Mitsubishi V4AW3 transmissions. I kept my eyes open and found an NP231 from a 2001 Wrangler with a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) already installed. I also found an AW4 tailhousing from an unknown year Cherokee.

My first steps were back in December when I tried mounting the AW4 tailhousing and np231 to the V4AW3. The tailhousing bolted up just fine and the splines ended up being the same size and count. This initial "test fit" did let me know that if I wanted this to work I would need a "short" input shaft for the NP231. Over the years NP231's have come with different input shafts varying in spline count and lenth. There are three lengths and two spline counts: 21 and 23 splines. The V4AW3 is a 23 spline tailshaft. I also used this opportunity to check the clearances with the floor, exhaust, crossmembers, and t-bars. I felt confident that the NP231 was a good fit and at the most would need minor clocking. After this wrenching session, I reinstalled the Active-trac t-case so I could continue driving the truck while I shopped around for more parts. I would recommend messing with the Active-trac t-case as little as possible! It is a heavy beast to bench press into place.

Since I first started dreaming of this mod, I knew that I wanted to make a dual transfer case setup. I felt that the dual case provided the following benefits:
1)Allowed for selectable ranges, ie:1:1, 2.72:1, & 7.4:1. With these options, even the middle speed is lower than the stock 1.90:1!
2)It was something I could piece together as time and money permitted.

I had three options to choose from in trying to create a dual NP231:
1)  Build the components myself. I didn't like this option simply because I knew it meant welding a mid-shaft together. I wasn't crazy out a welded shaft being in the heart of my drivetrain.
2)  A Mad Rooster Offroad crawlerbox
3)  Or a D.D.Machine "Box4rocks"

I decided on the D.D.Machine kit. I chose this kit because the guy that makes them seemed to really stand behind his product and know what he was doing. Also this kit had provisions for oil filling and draining. I was also less than thrilled with how the Mad Rooster guy handled himself when answering an email of mine.

I was lucky enough to find a Box4rocks 23 spline kit second-hand that had not yet been installed and came with all the parts that would be needed from a donor NP231 to make the doubler. I got even luckier when I found out that this doubler donor was a 23 spline short input shaft!
Here are some pics of the Box4rocks and doubler parts:
The doubler cut, welded, and guts assembled (you can see the midshaft poking out in the middle):

The plate that seals the rear of the doubler:

The clocking ring:

Once I had the doubler parts I wanted to start test fitting things to make sure everything would fit before I got too far into the project. I began by temporarily assembling the two cases. I soon found out that the assembly was almost too long and there was some interferance with the crossmember. Not only did I want the assembly to clear everything, but I knew that I would need some additional room for the drivetrain to "float" and enough clearance to reach the drain and fill plugs.

To clear the crossmember I did two things. The first was to remove this extra tab on the rear case housing:

It ended up looking like this:

Removing the tab helped the assembly to clear the crossmember, but it still didn't give me enough room to access the drain plug. My solution to this was to shorten the entire assembly 1/2" by removing the clocking ring. The clocking ring is a nice feature that is included in the kit, but unfortunately I could not afford the extra length that it caused. I experimented with various clocking positions and finally found one I was happy with. I settled on the final position because it was nicely tucked in above the t-bar without hitting the bottom of the floor.

To eliminate the clocking ring, I marked it's location and used the ring as a template to drill through the rear plate of the doubler case. Once these holes were drilled, I countersunk them so that bolt heads would clear the internals of the doubler case. The result looked like this:

I bolted the assembly together only to find out that once the clocking ring was removed that the rear case would no longer clear the bolt head that holds the rear part of the doubler shifter rail from floating around. I solved this problem by countersinking that bolt head as well:

Once that was completed, I assembled them again for another test fit and was happy with the results.

Continue reading
  19832 Hits

Versatile Hardmount Onboard Air Installation

By: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. - January 2006

The steps for installing an electric On-Board Air System (OBA) are straightforward and universal:

  • Determine what you want to accomplish with the system
  • Determine where to install the components
  • Install the components
  • Connect the components
Continue reading
  13939 Hits

Off Roading, What’s That?

Off Roading, What’s That?
by: Scott D. Heiser

Read the title of this article. Now, read it again. This is what our children are going to be saying to us if we keep doing things at the pace we are going. I live in a great area, with plenty of trails in just my backyard to go wheeling on. It saddens me to see what has been done to these trails, and what I see other people doing while “four wheeling”. I have the pleasure of having some fun trails, lined with rocks and trees, and GREAT scenery all within about 10 minutes of me.

The problem is, all the “locals” decide that they should tear the entire area up, crawling up trees to take pictures of their rigs flexing, and running over the dead trees, that are a good fifty feet off the trail. Most, if not ALL of these people also feel that it is necessary to drink WHILE wheeling, and then proceed to throw the empty cans out of their rigs, into the forest. While I know that this is not the case for everyone, I have seen it countless times, in countless locations.

With actions like this, it won’t be long before this hobby of ours will become extinct. It’s pretty sad, that this day in age, it seems that people can’t go out into the wooded trails, or the desert and have a good time without a beer in hand. If we want to continue to see the hobby of four wheeling grow, and want it to be around for our kids to enjoy, we really need to crack down on those that trash our trails, and get drunk and tear things up while “four wheeling”.

I know many of you have seen this countless times. I can’t be the only one. There isn’t much we can do to STOP these activities, but we can sure voice our opinions to A LOT of different organizations, and if you see someone drinking excessively and wheeling, say something to them.

Sure, you may not be the “popular” guy, but I for one would rather be unpopular now, and save the trails for my future children, instead of seeing all the trails closed off to the public, so my kids can’t enjoy what I love to do. My hope is that one day I will be able to help a son of mine build a rig of his own to wheel out here in our national forest, but the way things are going, its not looking like that is going to happen. I see more and more trails get shut down to public use every year. It is usually for a variety of reasons, not all of them related to belligerent four wheelers, but we can sure help the cause by straightening up our act.

Continue reading
  13100 Hits

OutdoorWire, 4x4Wire, JeepWire, TrailTalk, MUIRNet-News, and 4x4Voice are all trademarks and publications of OutdoorWire, Inc. and MUIRNet Consulting. Copyright (c) 1999-2020 OutdoorWire, Inc and MUIRNet Consulting - All Rights Reserved, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without express written permission. You may link freely to this site, but no further use is allowed without the express written permission of the owner of this material. All corporate trademarks are the property of their respective owners.